No das Papaya
Don’t give Papaya (Don’t give people a reason to rob. Be Careful
Let’s start with my Colombia Itinerary. This Itinerary takes around 2 months to complete with a relative calm pacing to it. As I was crossing the Ecuador border I am starting from the border town Ipiales. Starting from Bogota will also bring in a similar Itinerary. I am converting prices at 3.100 COP = $1 USD (Just divide by 3 and take off 2 zeros)
Ipiales
How many days: 0 days
What to do there: See a beautiful Castle
Ipiales isn’t really a place you want to spend much time in. Cross the border from Ecuador take a taxi which was around 20.000 COP. ($6.50) Walk to see the castle. I did it with all my stuff and was really tiring cause its still a couple km of a walk down then back up. To get to the terminal I took a collectivo which was 5.000 COP ($1.60) Then bus to Popayán which takes around 8hrs. Make sure you don’t fall a sleep as usually these buses go to Cali. Bus to Popayán around 40.000 COP ($13)
Popayán
How many days: 3-4 days
What to do there: Tierradentro, Explore the city, Hot Springs, San Agustin
Popayan is a very colonial city. I met a some Luxembourg girls there and I followed their plan when I arrived. Checked out a Volcano which only better to climb when weather permits, hot springs which we didn’t get to, Tierradentro which is a national park with a 50.000 COP ($16) entrance. I suggest 1 night there as its very big and beautiful. From here you can go to San Agustin to see some more archaeological figures or do a cocaine tour or you can go to Cali. Cali only 3 hrs from here. Also Note that roads to San Agustin are just terrible.
Cali
How many days: 5-6 days
What to do there: San Cipriano, Learn Salsa, Explore the City, Capoeira, Trek the 3 Cruzes, Jesus Statue, Eat Arepas, Party
Cali is a cool city. Not too big and not too small. San Antonio is where all the main stuff is for easy walking distance. Uber is illegal but is cheap here and if you want even cheaper then use Indriver as you set the price. So here is the salsa capital and there’s plenty of schools but most hostels offer free lessons everyday which is better than the schools but if you actually want to learn then the best thing you should do is private lessons which is around 40.000 COP ($13) an hr or if you are a couple there’s a hostel called Havana and its 50.000 COP ($16) for 2 people per hour. I suggest to check out La Topa for salsa practice of what you learned. Everyone there dances with each other. There’s 3 cruzes which I suggest to go with a group from the hostel and there’s a gym up there with a beautiful view. You can try capoeira which is an afro brazilian mix martial art disguised by dance. It’s not from here but its dope and great way to meet locals. Also don’t forget to eat arepas at Arepa Cuadradas. Just amazing. Then you can go for a day trip to San Cipriano. You take bus which you can haggle to 20.000 COP ($7.50) there and then you get a motorcycle train thing then takes you to the city. From there you can go tubing or check out the waterfalls. It’s a shady place so I don’t suggest sleeping there. Then go back to Cali and definitely go to Buena Aventura!
Buenaventura
How many days: 3 days
What to do there: Go to San Pedro island to chill, enjoy life and swim in amazing pools
To get to Buena Aventura you take a bus there which is around 30.000 ($10) (same way as San Cipriano so actually you can do that on the way back to Cali) Go in the morning as Buena Aventura is dangerous and the goal isn’t to explore that city or even sleep there but to go to San Pedro Island so the last boats leaves around 4pm but earlier the waves are better. Costs I believe 100.000 ($32) both ways. You tell them you want to go to San pedro. You get on a boat that goes to different islands. The boat stops at Maguipi then you transfer. Make sure you bring food for every day you will be there in Tucan Hostel. There is no fridge. We spent around $100 for 6 people cooking everyday of course. In those days the hostel owner offers activities. We only did the jungle trek to these awesome waters with ziplining, sliding, and jumping for 10.000 ($3). Back to Cali from here and off to Salento for us
Salento
How many days: 4 days
What to do: The Nevados trek and Coffee farms
To get here from Cali you take a bus to Armena for around 20.000 COP ($6.50) then from there a small bus to Salento for 5.000 ( $1.60) no bargaining there. So when I was there I went on a 3 day 2 night trek for 400.000 ($130) brekky and dinner included but no lunch. One of the craziest and best experiences of my life. It’s not easy but it’s worth it. I can go off on it all day long. After you can spend an extra day to learn how to make coffee. From here you can go to the famous place of Medellin 50.000 COP ($16) to get there.
Medellin
How many days: 7-9 days
What to do: Party, Comuna 13, Free city walking tour, Nutibara hill, Planetarium, Botanical gardens, Guatape, Pablo Escobar tour
So Medellin is a very well known city and I really like it. Its a very big city with 2.5 million people with the best public transportation in Colombia. It’s pretty good but not perfect but don’t tell them that. Very proud. So not everything I put on what to do is actually worth it. Main things to hit is Guatape (you can spend the night there if you want) Comuna 13, the free city walking tour, and party or at least go out and get food. Very fun place to go out in the town. You will probably be a bit tired from Los Nevados so you might want to take it easy but I like to spend at least a week in big cities as there’s always an abundance of things to do. From here you got choices of where to go. You can take a cheap flight ($50) to the infamous San Andreas or take a bus to Cartagena (14-20 hrs) for 100.000 ($30) COP. I didn’t have money for San Andreas so I spilt from my group and went to Cartagena.
Cartagena
How many days: 3 days
What to do there: Party, Beach, Walk around city, Volcano thermals
Cartagena is a cool colorful city. You arrive in the south and takes 40 minutes to get to the old center which is where you want to be. The new center is cool too but one day there to see the beach and chill is enough. Here you can go out to the bar, dance, and just have a good time. Great vibes are to be had there. Walk around the city during the day and you can take an extra do to go to the volcano thermals but we skipped that and went to San Marta. It’s about 30.000 COP ($10) to get there.
Santa Marta
How many days: 1
What to do there: think about where to go from there
Santa Marta itself isn’t great to say the least. Spent a night and went to the beach, did some drinking, saw the city but it’s what’s around Santa Marta that makes it the destination to be. Go to hostel, we stayed in Sierra, stay a night leave your bags and go on some adventures. Be sure to check the price if the hostel charges. Most don’t but Sierra won’t charge if you stay a night when you come back otherwise its 15.000 ($5) a day per bag. From here you got choices. You can go to the Tayrona National Park and see Cabo San Juan beach. 2 days at least if you go there. We went to Bohemia Beach Hostel which takes an hour to get to and costs around 8.000 ($2.50)
Bohemia Beach Hostel
How many days: 2
What to do there: beach chill
Enjoy yourself there. Really enjoyed my time. It’s not really a town. Bus drops you off just after entrance to Tayrona and there’s just hostels and hotels off the beach. We stayed there for about 50.000 COP ($16) a night and since we thought we were camping we bought a bunch of food. There’s no kitchen but they have a restaurant which isn’t ridiculously priced (25.000 $8 for ceviche) and it’s really good. Waves were too crazy when I was there. From here you can continue north to Palomino which we skipped or to the northern most tip of South America Punta Gallinas in the Guajira district.
Punta Gallinas Adventure
How many days: 3
What to do there: Ocean meets the desert, Swim, Northern most point in South America
To get there it is a bit of an adventure but it’s well worth it. First take a bus to Riohacha (30.000 $10 from Santa Marta) should be less if you catch from from the street of the Bohemia Hostel. From there get a car for like 15.000 ($5) each to Uribia. This desert town you will have your last chance to buy water for decent price so stock up on water, 4 liters per person fine and some snacks (no need to go heavy on food just water) Take a shared 4×4 to Cabo de la Vela for around 20.000 ($6.50). There you can stay the night in a hammock for like 5.000 ($1.60). Before that time you will be shoved with tours down your throat so continue this way if you want to save money. Now the only way to get to Punta Gallinas is by tour so you saved money for sure but now you have to buy a tour cause theres no public way of getting there and you’ll see why. We paid 120.000 ($39) which includes transport to Punta Gallinas back to Riohacha which is nice. Stay the night in Cabo and swim cause the water is so calm its like a giant pool it’s amazing. The restaurants are more money but not crazy. The next day you go to Punta Gallinas you pay for all the meals which are about 15.000 ($5) each and go see cool things. Next day you go back to Santa Marta, Palomino or Buritaca. We skipped Palomino and went to Buritaca which was around 7.000 ($2.50) from Riohacha
Buritaca
How many days: 1-2
What to do there: beach
Came here to visit a friend to stay in a very very nice hostel called Viajero Tayrona hostel. It used to be a 5 star hotel resort. Its still very expensive for a hostel at 50.000 ($16) a night for a share and the restaurant is expensive as well at 30.000 ($10) for some really good steak though. We didn’t want to pay that price every meal so we left after 1 day. Here though is home of famous hostel El Rio Hostel for straight partying. From here we went back to Santa Marta to go to Taganga. Back to Taganga is about 10.000 ($3).
Taganga
How many days: 3 days
What to do there: Beach, Scuba diving, Chill
Here we got an air bnb with a beach view for about 50.000 ($16) each per night. Here there are a few beaches to check for snorkeling. Honestly most the beaches are inhabited by bums and they aren’t that great and the snorkeling is okay but still fun. Getting your Padi can be done here for around 700.000 ($225) with negotiating. For 2 dives I paid 150.000 ($50). Theres night dives for 100.000 ($30). You go on a tiny boat not too far from shore. You can party on the beach at night but it’s dangerous I heard and met some people that got robbed there. It’s good place to relax. Can be skipped if need be.
Minca
How many days: 4
What to do there: Ayahuasca, Kambo, Biggest net, Waterfalls, Views, Lakes, Chill, Eat at the best burger place ever
Minca is simply a must do. Just for the burgers. Go to The Lazy Cat restaurant and get the jalepeño spicy burger. Thank me later. Besides that there’s no reason to go. Just kidding there’s a lot of natural. We stayed at La Fuente and it was good if there were people. It was ghost town but it’s ok. Dinner is expensive and they charge for anything. Good thing is your half way to most nature things. I suggest stay in the center or better yet go to Aloha hostel retreat center. 2 hr trek. If you don’t stay there at least check it out on your trek to Piños. Its 80.000 ($26) a night there but every meal is included and those meals are not light. They are vegetarian but they definitely fill you up. I went just to eat and paid 5.000 $1.60 a meal. Beautiful views and also a retreat for kambo, ayahuasca, yoga, and just get away from life. There are some swimmable lakes too called Pozo Azules just go early to avoid the crowds.
San Gil
How many days: 2-3
What to do there: Bungee jumping, Check out Barichara, Check out to Guane, White water rafting, Extreme sports
Extreme sports capital of Colombia. I did the bungee here. It was 60.000 ($20) each. Theres 2 bungee places. One at 70m and other at 140m. It’s cheap and very safe so no excuses. The white water rafting is pricier if you want level 4 waters at around 100.000 ($30). I only spent 2 nights here but the more activities you do the longer you stay. For my second day we went to Barichara which you can stay or go for the day. It’s a cute city which you can take a beautiful walk to Guane. Bring some good company with you to have great conversations. From here you can go to Villa de Leyva or go to Bogota. There’s no public buses straight to Villa de Leyva so you can share a taxi or go to Bogota and go from there.
Bogota
How many days: 5-7 days
What to do: Salt Cathedral, War and Peace tour, Free bike tour, Botanical gardens, Candelaria, Monserrate View, Museums, Craft beer, Tejo
Bogota is the capital of Colombia and most don’t like it. It could be the terrible public transport or the freezing temperatures but besides that you got to give it a chance. Still not my favorite but there’s things to do. The best place to stay is in the Candelaria district where most hostels are. I stayed in other parts which I recommend too but for you had to choose this is the place. (I checked out and stayed in 10 hostels there) The Gold Museum is the most famous and is free on Sundays. The War and peace tour is a must. Best information tour in Colombia. The free bike tour is not really free. They shove 45.000 ($14) recommended donations down your throat. Information is bad but it’s a fun little bike ride around town. Better to just rent bikes for 20.000 ($6.50) a day. You can play Tejo here as well in the sketchy neighborhood Santa Fe. Also there is a great selection of cheap craft beer. 30.000 ($10) for a jug that fills 6 glasses. Botanical gardens are a bit farther out and are actually really nice place. There’s a really cool hostel Mandela by the gardens as well. The view to see the city is called Monserrate and can only be climbed by foot before 1pm otherwise you must take the cable car because of safety. Cable car 12.000 ($4) 1 way or 20.000 ($6.50) both ways. My favorite thing I did was not even in Bogota. It was a short bus ride away to Zipaquira to see the Salt Cathedral. Not gonna lie it’s not cheap and hard to justify it but I enjoyed it. It’s like going to disneyworld in terms on how its organized it is. It’s an underground church in a Salt Mine which is crazy and make sure for extra 10.000 ($3) to do the mine tour as well. Total is 60.000 ($20). I suggest you leave your bags in Bogota to go to Zipaquira stay the night and then you can go to Villa de Leya
Villa de Leyva
How many days: 3 days
What to do: Tejo, Lakes, Mud house, Fossils
This is a cool place and a must go. Stay at the hostel Xue. Great owners and activities everyday. Recommended for solo travelers. You should play Tejo here. 18.000 ($6) for unlimited beer and tejo for around 2 hrs. Tejo is a Colombia game similar to horseshoes but with gun powder that explodes. It’s good fun and played at night. During the day you can rent bikes and check out the mud house known as Terracotta Casa and Pozo Azules. There’s also fossils and archeological penis site if you want to see. At the hostel at night there is also bonfires and family dinners depending on the day of the week. From here you can go back to Bogota and then continue Tatacoa desert or Caño cristales (river of 5 colors) I went back to Cali to learn Salsa and relaxed until my flight.
Extra: Things I didn’t do but are I believe are definitely still worth it
Macarena
What’s there: Caño Cristales (River of 5 colors)
How many days: 2-3 days
Safely accessible by plane from Bogota or Villa Vicencio as by land is very dangerous as it is in Guerrilla territory. Can cost up to around $500. Peak colors is July and August but you have until around november to see the colors.
Tayrona National Park (by Santa Marta)
Whats there: Cabo San Juan beach
How many days: 2-3 days
Neiva ( 6 hrs south of Bogota)
Whats there: Tacaoma Desert
How many days: 1 days
San Andreas island
What’s there: Beautiful Caribbean sea. (the Hawaii of Colombia)
How many days: 4-6 days
(Flight from Medellin around $50 1 way)
San Bernardo island ( by Cartagena)
Whats there: Floating House
How many days: 3 days
Letica
What’s there: Amazon Rainforest
How many days: 7 days
(flights from Bogota $50 one way)
Lost City Trek (In Tayrona National Park by Santa Marta)
How many days: 3 days
Very famous and many say it’s one of their favorite things. It’s very expensive for what you get. Around $300 and I heard mixed thoughts from experienced travelers but if you never been to the jungle then definitely do it.
Summary
This is my Itinerary. Modify it as you choose. I would say fly into Bogota and do a circle back to Bogota or do the opposite and continue down to Ecuador! Colombia is a beautiful place and I have so many memories here. Honestly there’s so much to see just the rest is more off the beaten track. Some of the things I did were also off the beaten track but were definitely worth it. Pick and choose what you want or do more exploring. There’s no much here that I didn’t do that I know of and also what I don’t know of. I’m burned out now and need time to relax. I’m a go with the flow traveler. I didn’t look at any manuals or anything to do this. I ask people or I go with people. Enjoy and you will love it. In my next posts I will go over the food, the people, and more in depth in each place. Also I have Itineraries to do of most South America countries.
Hungry Traveler 